10 Black Designers Who Shaped Fashion History

From Elizabeth Keckley to Telfar Clemens, Black designers have changed fashion history and paved the way for other creatives of color through their innovative designs. Despite facing systemic challenges, these designers broke barriers and made significant contributions to the fashion industry.

Elizabeth Keckley

In the 1860s, former Virginia-born slave Elizabeth Keckley became the personal dressmaker and close confidante of Mary Todd Lincoln, wife of Abraham Lincoln. Keckley bought her freedom and established herself as a skilled seamstress for influential women in Washington D.C. She was also a civil activist and author, leaving a lasting legacy in both fashion and social history.

Zelda Wynn Valdes

Born in Pennsylvania in 1905, Zelda Wynn Valdes climbed the ranks from a boutique storeroom worker to a celebrated seamstress. She designed garments for legendary figures like Ella Fitzgerald and Maria Cole, Nat King Cole’s wife. Valdes was also responsible for designing the original Playboy Bunny costume, solidifying her place in fashion history.

Ann Lowe

Ann Lowe was the first African American to gain widespread recognition as a fashion designer. Her elegant designs adorned high-society women from the 1920s to the 1960s. Lowe is best known for designing Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy’s wedding dress in 1953, though she was never publicly credited at the time due to racial discrimination. In 1968, she opened Ann Lowe Originals on Madison Avenue.

Jay Jaxon

A pioneer of Black designers in French couture, Jay Jaxon worked in prestigious Parisian fashion houses, including Yves Saint Laurent and Christian Dior. Born in Queens, New York, Jaxon brought his influence to Hollywood, dressing stars like Annie Lennox for the 1984 Grammy Awards. His contributions to haute couture helped pave the way for future generations.

Patrick Kelly

Mississippi-born Patrick Kelly became the first American accepted into the prestigious Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode in Paris. Known for his exuberant, humorous designs that celebrated Black culture and traditions, Kelly’s work was groundbreaking. In recent years, his name resurfaced through The Kelly Initiative, advocating for equal employment opportunities for Black talent in fashion.

Willi Smith

Willi Smith is credited as one of the founders of streetwear. His brand, WilliWear Limited, launched in 1976 and grossed over $25 million by 1986. Smith believed in making fashion accessible and affordable, democratizing style by drawing inspiration from street culture. His work blurred the lines between high fashion and everyday wear.

Stephen Burrows

Stephen Burrows was the first African American designer to achieve international success in high fashion. His vibrant, disco-inspired designs from the 1970s made him a staple in New York’s fashion scene. Burrows gained further recognition after participating in the 1973 Battle of Versailles, a landmark fashion show where American designers outshone their French counterparts.

Tracy Reese

Tracy Reese has been a prominent figure in American fashion since launching her label in 1998. As a board member of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) since 2007, she advocates for sustainability through her brand Hope for Flowers. Reese’s designs emphasize beauty, social consciousness, and ethical fashion.

Kimora Lee Simmons

Kimora Lee Simmons revolutionized streetwear with her brand Baby Phat, which launched in 1999. The brand defined early 2000s fashion with its signature baby tees and bedazzled jeans, achieving billion-dollar success. Simmons relaunched Baby Phat in 2019, tapping into the nostalgia-driven resurgence of Y2K fashion.

Telfar Clemens

Telfar Clemens, a Liberian-American designer, founded his eponymous brand in 2005. Telfar’s genderless fashion and accessibility have made it a cultural phenomenon. His Telfar Shopping Bag, often called the "Bushwick Birkin," became one of the most sought-after accessories of the decade. Clemens continues to champion inclusivity and innovation in fashion.

These ten designers have left an indelible mark on the fashion industry, using their creativity to challenge norms and redefine style. Their work continues to inspire new generations of designers and fashion lovers alike.